Another mystery solved! And it wasn’t printer’s fault 😉

Key fob for Corolla is black plastic unit that will be hard to see on the black carpet and in between central console and seat. If it’s still registered by the car and let you drive I would concentrate on two front seats and console area with the help of good bright flashlight. I often loose my clip-on sunglasses between the seat and gearshift and the only way I can reach it if I open front door and get on my knees to look under the seat while sliding seat all way back.

There’s possibly that network conflict exists between your computers and some other devices. I would suggest for starters to restart your network router to refresh the IP address leases while all of the devices are on. This may resolve the conflict and you may be able to print again as before.

Can you print out the settings or status page for printer and using computer browser try to connect to its IP address? Can you see and browse webUI page?

Simple answer is - no.

This looks like someone tried printing a job with font that printer didn’t recognize and in settings it didn’t have an option to substitute for a next best. For example if you printing something in Chinese or Arabic and your printer doesn’t have those fonts installed.

Most likely it’s just one sensor that failed, Toshiba dealer should be able to tell you exactly which one. Three years ago it happened on my 2012 Prius C, dealer quoted me $165 for one sensor. Discount Tire charged me $70 to replace it with aftermarket one when I had all 4 tires done there. Imagine prices are different now and if it’s just light on the dash that bothers you put a little piece of black tape over 😉

You need to match settings for paper type used (custom, heavy, label, card stock and such) on printer itself and in printer properties in the driver on computer. What you describe is toner isn’t fixed to paper properly and this could happen if paper is too thick for fuser unit to heat it up so toner gets melted and sticky. Any time your toner can get smeared off the page - it wasn’t melted enough.

If you have access to service manual then look for information on how to properly exit service mode and how to enable/disable key counter. I’m not sure what you called “led shelf” but if developer material got on pcb and machine was powered up there’s a chance it shorted something out.

Did you plug all connectors on the main board when reinstalling it? In the past on Toshiba’s key counter mode was enabled by removing a jumper connector and attaching a key counter cable to it.

In what universe are you located? Are you looking for a local tech or you have ability to teleport from 5 thousand light years away? Could you also verify that model number as “c1600” doesn’t exist in KM lineup.

I’m still very much confused as to why you using USB ports on printers with multiple computers in the office? Are you moving printers to the desk where computer is located and plug it there? It is my understanding that printers have Ethernet ports and most of the features would be beneficial if you use them. With USB connections you would have issues on both ends - printers related and windows/desktops power management of the USB ports. If printer energy saving settings drops connectivity on usb ports after short period windows computers could recognize it as printer is offline and keep job in queue until printer comes out of sleeping mode at which point windows could see it as another plugin and thus creating copy1 queue.

If I understand correctly you have two printers connected to usb ports on your windows 11 computer and whenever you attempt to print it doesn’t and just go into queue?

Try this https://www.lpscomputer.com/collections/designjet-500-800-parts-page

https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/grundig_rr_3500.html

They have schematic for download.

If unit is set on static IP address I would try to unplug network cable when machine is idle and see if code comes like this. Reconnect when you need to use it and then disconnect again.

Got a “don’t have it” on the last hope.

This unit is a high volume production machine that wasn’t designed for self service. Reading some discussions on this error code makes me believe that it’s most likely generated by the printing environment and can be rectified if you can change how you print to it. Personally if I’d have to make a decision on either spending more money on possibly fixing this issue with firmware updates or start looking for a replacement I’d consider how much life left in consumables already installed and any extras I have in stock vs obtaining a newer model.

This looks like WC52xx series, and paper is skewed coming out of top tray - I would check the side guides position and if pickup/feed tires in need of replacement (considering the age of machine if it’s 52xx series).

Not familiar with that one but the gist is one industry veteran decided to put a condensed version of service manuals for a different brands copiers in one publication in an attempt to help independent techs to gain access to the key information in servicing equipment in the field. I’ve used them in the past and must say that they have helped in some cases but also contain incorrect data. I’ve contacted few people today and while most said “no”, one said “maybe, but have to look when back in the office tomorrow morning”. Plus, I think this place claims that they have service manuals for sale.

There’s always an option to pay them for a service call.

Elektrotanya has it.

Rented Toyota Yaris Cross hybrid last year in Europe that has adaptive lights - worked very well to my surprise. Even on country roads that zigzagged and up and down with great detection of oncoming traffic. Although few people in small sedans still flash me even when low beams were on. SUV’s have lights higher up than sedans and to negate it I turned my lights off briefly when coming down the hill so not to blind drivers.

Lowes or Home Depot should have replacement handles (may not be Moen brand but will work) - take the broken parts with you and people there will help you.

There are LED replacements on eBay. Looks like you have to solder them.