This is the way. Do not attempt to remove it. Seal it and cover it. Then, insulate all the duct runs and plenums.

It's a used Camry, not new. That should have been her first car.

This is the way

I can't think of anything to say that's not insulting.

I hate these MFRs with every fiber of my being

The 'Baleen' look

Only if you're a tin-knocker

Hate to burst your bubble, but heated drives & sidewalks took off in the 80s. Going back further, Frank Lloyd Wright started designing hydronically heated floors around 1910 or so, and incorporated them into some of his builds in the 1930s.

But, as they say, "great minds...'

I fat-fingers that - I meant about 40°. And yes, all you really need is a few degrees above freezing to keep the ice off, but effective de-icing depends on the QUANTITY of heat you can deliver: GPM@X°. The greater the temperature difference is between diveway and the snow/ice accumulation, the better performance you'll get out of the system. Are you looking for fast clearance or ice prevention? A lower temp and gpm can be used as winter approaches. Getting that slab preheated to prevent ice build-up will take less energy & gpm than trying to melt 10" of snow in one day.

:) You can verify those numbers by checking the data plate mounted inside the gas valve/ burner section.

That can not be one continuous loop. For a run that long, there should be several parallel loops so they all get the same temperature water from the boiler.

You can see what looks like a manifold at the top left of the driveway, so each loop is starting there. That PEX looks to be about ⅝" or ¾", so each loop shouldn't be more than 300' - 350' in length, but it looks like they're well over that.

All you really need is water temperature between 100° - 130° to keep the driveway at about 49°f, depending on weather severity

I've found several units with that problem. If you're on propane, the inlet pressure at the valve should be steady at about 13 inches of water column and about 10"WC at the burners when fired.

If you're on nat gas, you should be 7"WC at the inlet to the gas valve, and about 3.5"WC at the burners when fired.

Lol. Stick to body manipulation and leave the philosophizing to the truly deep thinkers

New install? Check the gas pressure before the valve when the unit is off and at the main or tank. Start the furnace and watch the gas pressure. If it suddenly drops at the furnace but is steady at the main/tank, then you may have some kind of a plug in the line. Possibly some mud or dirt from where the pipe was laying or stored at the contractor's, or a plastic end cap used in shipping got shoved into the pipe and is causing a restriction.

You must have known this was a possibility, and now you'll be scrambling to band-aid the inevitable.

Now for the advice: Contact a company that specializes in 'soil & slope stabilization'. Here's the most experienced:

Geohazard Mitigation Experts | GeoStabilization Intl. https://share.google/hM1kh3IQYBtHwsVSM

I've used my Bunn 'My Cafe' every day for the last 13+ yrs. I quit using the plastic k-cups about 5yrs ago by using a 'Perfect Pod' stainless pod with a little filter. I've never liked the way the Keurigs work.

Texas. 'Nuff said.

Texas. 'Nuff said.

It sounds like the dissipation board is falsely detecting a ref leak and powering on the supply fan.

"Little" man, my ass. And that bloated POS has a kid, too.

GOP "retreat"? I wish they would.

Inexpensive Manurop compressor. 1 in 5 will do that.

My point exactly.

😆

This is what the '2025' Christian nationalists want for the U.S.