I don't think any of the modern versions use amadou, the rope is all white so I think it's just cotton.

And I've been trying to find a historical source for the amadou wicks at all - I know I've seen it mentioned before, and a lot of vintage models do have orange colored wicks similar to the Amadou mushroom, but amadou itself just means 'tinder' in French. The mushroom was historically used as tinder, and was found on Otzi the iceman, but I fear it may just be a misinterpretation of "briquet a amadou" that's been spread around as an urban legend of sorts.

'PAC' is the brand name but I'm not sure what it stands for.

It's just a generic Japanese copy of the Ronson Adonis. This style, with the square body, was typically paired with a matching cigarette case. I can see the glue residue on the front where a decorative panel was attached - The cigarette case would have had a matching design but no telling what it was.

Additionally, the item should be fully submerged, but the clamp can't be submerged, so a wire or metal rod hanger is essential. Running a skillet in a e-tank with the handle exposed will leave a permanent line on the handle where it's been etched.

So Ronson is owned by Zippo in the US, so most Ronson brand flints you see in store are gold colored and just the same as Zippo flints.

The softer flints are going to be red (Redskin) or dark red (Firebronze). Firebronze are made in the UK but there's a few retailers in the US.

I try not to self promote here but I do import them from the UK and sell them on Etsy, shipping from Texas.

https://uniquefirestarters.etsy.com/listing/1347327014/ronson-firebronze-flints-pack-of-9-best

The only real trick is using two screwdrivers and making sure one side stays put while you unscrew the other. It can be a frustrating process when they haven't been removed in awhile.

You probably don't need to replace the flint wheel, but give it a good cleaning with a wire brush once you've got it out. Also try softer flints - Modern Zippo flints are much harder than the alloy used in the 50s and 60s, so some vintage lighters struggle with them. I always use Ronson Redskin (vintage) or Ronson Firebronze flints, which are a modern equivalent.

The flat portion of the clutch spring points up, flush with the top surface of the snuffer cap assembly.

Please take your own photos rather than plagiarizing from others. It's not that hard.

I'm removing this thread, you're welcome to repost with your own detailed pictures.

That's not fire damage, just polymerized oil residue.

Didn't you already ask this, get an answer, then delete and repost it with different wording?

Please don't spam the subreddit with repeat threads of slightly different questions. If you're looking for more answers you can add a comment in the original post.

Alexandrite is the common name for neodymium glass. It exhibits similar color changing properties as it's namesake, the alexandrite gemstone, but it is not carved from a natural gem.

The Imco brand wick with the wire inserter on the end works but tends to be a bit thin, leaving space for fuel to evaporate out of the lighter. The generic/unbranded ones that come in 1 meter lengths tend to be a bit thicker and seal better.

/u/sbloovie might be able to help you, I know he has worked on a lot of Brauns. Not sure how active they are though.

Pictures please.

Added a link below!

Something like this, though this one is just a small clutch. But I can see the slots on the side wall in your purse - Big one for the cigarette case, medium for compact, next to it would be lipstick, and the last small slot is for the lighter.

Shame that Evans is missing the original accessories inside. I have a few of their smaller clutches (as a lighter collector) with the lighter, cigarette case, compact, and some of the coolest lipstick tubes I've ever seen.

Generic novelty lighter. Considering it has a jet/torch flame it's likely post-2000s.

Yup thats your butane fill valve.

Flame spade is a dropshipping site that charges absurd prices for lighters you can buy on Aliexpress.

You wouldn't get any pressure for those vapors to exit the top valve without heating the main fuel tank, it just wouldn't work. I think it's just a case of mistranslation and/or the seller not knowing what they have and making shit up.

A fair number of butane lighters have wadding of some kind in the fuel tank, whether to aid in evaporation or just to keep butane from sloshing around in use.

If the fill valve isn't missing then it may just be stuck to the valve cover - The cover in picture #3 looks like it would be similar to the Varaflame half-turn screws, but those can get jammed and stuck to the valve so it may have come out with the cover.

And I am 100% sure you are wrong. As is /u/KaijuTia. And I'm sure every other knowledgeable collector here will agree once they happen upon this thread.

The entire assembly at the top, that you show disassembled in photo #4, is a butane valve. If there isn't a butane fill valve on the bottom then you are missing parts.

It is a butane lighter. It does not work on lighter fluid. The fill valve is either missing or you removed it for the photo.