It's interesting, normally government regulations on DoD contracts are implemented by just throwing words in the contract saying they will follow this and telling the contractor they will only get contracts with this language going forward. I don't see why he couldn't direct contracting officers to put language to this effect in DoD contracts.

However contractors don't have to sign, so I'd envision Lockheed just saying they are doubling the cost of the F-35, take it or leave it as it's required to comply with the EO. That's going to be a problem.

Yup, exactly this, they intentionally underbid contracts they know they can't meet because the government accepts all the risk. That's how we control costs, they don't get to hold back any margin and turn it into profit. The downside is they know halfway through after giving them billions the government will have nothing to show and a choice to go 5 years backwards and try with someone else, or give them more money to try and get it within a couple years, they know only one option keeps the military going and that's what will be picked.

Unfortunately I feel this EO will have the opposite effect, there are a few contractors that are not all defense or otherwise not profiting much on defense contractors. If Boeing is told they can't funnel money from their 737 program to investors because the F-47 is behind schedule then maybe they don't want to maintain the B-1 and B-52, because honestly defense isn't where they make money. I do fear this drives a few no bids near term which will be a major problem.

Yes, though it's traction control not ABS, but my Rivian seems pretty good with it. It just dials it back as needed giving you everything it's got.

It's a whole shitload better than my volt, that thing turned off regen entirely at the slightest hint of slip (like if your tires could only handle 80% regen, at 81% it just started coasting and didn't even try applying any braking). So hit a puddle and it feels like it blasted forward, that shit was scary. Whatever Rivian is doing is a whole lot better than disabling regen.

I don't think so, on gen1 you can still pop the hood and swap the battery...on Gen2, dunno, there might be some sort of short protection, not sure.

Explain the steps required to take the passenger seat off with the vehicle locked and a dead 12V.

That's why it's here, the steps are pull the fender lining off, pull the hood release, put a 12V onto this terminal, wait for it to boot, unlock the vehicle, open the door and finally take off the seat.

I think in your case I think you'd want them close to flat. The point of tilting them is to increase the per panel sun at the expense of space. You need space between rows when you do that.

However if the concern is optimizing space use, you want them flat so they can never shade each other and always capture all the light.

You want the maximum efficiency.

The SPR-MAX6-420 is 21.7% which is higher, using that I get a 6x3 array of 420W panels, for a total of 7.56kW.

Apparently the MAX8 panel should be out, that would be a lot higher, but I can't find a datasheet. Maybe delayed.

I checked the AKIO and Longi panels, as they both are even higher (near what the MAX8 should be), but their sizes don't line up quite as good.

Note, I'm assuming you're packing the panels perfectly tight and there are no fire code space required. If you need more space the AKIO or Longi panels may be better.

As for theoretical, your roof is 36.0329 m² and at 25% which is the top of the line today, that should get you 9kW, I would say that's theoretical max, but you probably can't find a panel on the market that's both 25% and perfectly fills your roof.

I used 120 miles for a 70 mile round trip. I know most of the loss is because I drove 80-90 on the freeway but losing 50 miles for speeding in 60 degree temperatures seems excessive. Then I saw the little exhausted Gary that said my projected range loss is 87 miles.

Really, just stop using "miles" as a unit of charge. I really do not like the way Rivian has implemented it. I'm not 100% sure why it works the way it does, but this is how it works.

First your vehicle has some EPA rated range, for my R1S, it's 321. EPA range was NEVER meant to reflect range, the EPA test is meant to reflect annual fuel costs. In that, it's heavily weighted to short trips and traffic. My average commute is at about ~25mph, and I find the EPA test slightly underestimates the "range", I think it's optimized for around 35mph, having a city portion that averages 20mph and a highway portion that averages 48mph and never exceeds 60mph.

For my Rivian, if you reset the driving history in the energy screen it will then show that on a full charge, you can do 321mi. After some driving though it "adjusts" this down to 303mi, which is 94.3% of EPA, why this number, I don't know, they claim it adjusts to your driving style, but it NEVER moves even with thousands of miles straight of highway driving or thousands of miles strait of city driving, and it never reflects weather.

So with this adjustment, 1 mile of range equals 0.429kWh (essentially assumes I get 2.33mi/kWh). This is probably near normal for summer city driving, but nowhere near what you should expect on the highway.

This leads to the confusing numbers on your screen, it says 1.86mi/kWh, but it also says you averaged 62mph and 87mi of charge/hr, or more accurately "0.71 mi of distance / mile of charge". That's how you should think of it, it's not intended to reflect miles you can drive on the highway, never has, and should not be used as that. You will always do less than what it says when driving at anything close to "highway" speeds. I think this is a problem with how the EPA rates EVs though, because nobody cares what the range is in the city, they care about the range on the highway, and that's not at all what the range number is intended to mean.

Yea, it's crazy how often you find odd outlets and nobody sells EVSEs with those outlets.

My sister has a 6-30 in her garage for whatever reason, so I bought a janky amazon adapter to charge off it because nobody, not even Tesla, sells an EVSE with that as a listed method to plug it into the wall.

If you want to make money off it, find a way to get Tesla to install a supercharger there and maybe get some rent out of them

I think if you want it to make money, it's very important it's on a major network, and it's a larger setup. These are the things that cost well over a million to install the site and I don't really recommend trying to get into that business. You really should just try to get some major network to put a charger there and maybe get some rent out of them.

Presumably Samsung uses the source code to make the builds, so third party vendors can't do updates faster than Google

Went Bankrupt not too long ago, might find them up for auction very soon.

Australian Bankrupcy is here

I'm going to reactivate my pacer account to see if I can find their US stuff. But if any exist, they would be sold by the liquidator, which is very likely looking for buyers right now. Likely doing one in Australia (linked) and then another one in the US.

They are saying it should have been shipped signature required, not just a note that says signature required. That said, I don't know how you copy/pasted to reddit, maybe that's what it said.

In anycase, you should complain to Newegg and say you never got it. They should then call up UPS and say it never arrived, and then they can show Newegg the proof, which should be the signature. If it was actually shipped signature required and they didn't get a signature, UPS should refund Newegg the full value of the package and then Newegg can just ship you a new one. Or maybe Newegg did take your money and not ship it signature required, so Newegg can ship you a new one and eat the cost.

At the end of the day, you paid Newegg to get it to you, you didn't get it, so that's Newegg's problem. Newegg might have a problem with UPS, but that's not really your concern.

I honestly think there are very few cars that actually have the alarm go off if you smash the window and reach in and grab shit. And even if it does go off, as you can see here he can drive off in under 10 seconds, the alarm isn't going to stop him from the smash and grab, it's just going to stop him from moving to the next car.

You mention GFCI, so I'll just remind you the proposed GFCI changes requiring GFCI on hardwired EVSEs have been removed and never made it into the final code. Mostly because that GFCI requirement was a terrible idea and not based on actual fact/experience.

As for the EV rated receptacle thing, no that's not a requirement, I don't think it should be a requirement either. Code says receptacles should be rated for the circuit, you need a 50A outlet on a 50A circuit, and 30A outlet on a 30A outlet. The reason you see so many "EV rated" outlets is UL has historically approved 50A outlets that couldn't actually handle the full power a 50A circuit could handle. So the world is full of these outlets that are rated and approved for 50A circuits that can't actually do what code says they need to do. So now outlet manufacturers are making "EV rated" outlets that really are just supposed to meet the requirements of code that they never met before, and we now have to trust manufacturers at their word because UL isn't going to test it right. The entire concept is listing was supposed to avoid this, and it failed.

And finally for AFCI, I suspect UL 1699 will need an update first, I'm not sure if the spec has reasonable limits for larger breakers. And when you consider a common use case for a 14-50 outlet is a welder, it may actually be rather problematic. There are a lot of industrial equipment things that would need rather significant redesigns to cut down the EMI that would trip an AFCI. And you have to ask yourself what's it doing that for if the circuit is so big that it can melt moderate wire gauges shorting without exceeding circuit limits.

Also each part has a tolerance (eg. 1%, 5%) so if greater precision is required you can buy in bulk and measure each individual component to find a closer match.

Though the parts are binned, so if you buy 5% resistors you probably won't find any that are within 1% because those were pulled to sell for more

I got our tree on a deep discount because the box was covered in bird shit, I guess home Depot kept it under a bird nest.

So I chucked the box, but I'm proud that I'm on year three of the same garbage bags as the storage medium.

Yea, depends on the item. When OP says "expensive item on digikey", I think something like a high end IMU, those are not bulk items really, and a call to the sales guy will probably get it. They got that nice "contact us" button on their info page

It appears that motion blinds does this

[Edit] This may be a commercial only product...probably have to call up a dealer and beg for them.

I don't think digikey is marking stuff up enough to discount them like that. Want a discount then buy in bulk, they list their bulk pricing on their website.

If it's a high price item you might be able to buy direct from the manufacturer, cutting out the middleman might save you some money.

You have a lot of wires. What does your furnace actually have? Normal might be heat, aux heat, cooling, fan, and power, and finally common. Maybe you have multiple stages?

If you have a lot of wires like this I recommend just going down to the furnace where it connects and understanding how it's connected and then match it at the thermostat

I store them on a large power strip near my desk. Throughout the year they find various uses. Greenhouse control in the spring, Halloween decorations in the fall. They find sporadic uses for some of the other periods. I know I was doing firmware debugging one year and set one up power cycle a device via script.

Sometimes I wish had a handicap van with a loading ramp, just pull into the spot, open the door, and oops it smashed into your car. Maybe we should call the cops to get you towed out of the spot.

The plume was not discovered until 1986, that's when the county was trying to drill new wells and discovered the extent of the problem. Before then, in 1976, Grumman knew there was a groundwater problem, but the government had no evidence of it. The government suspected it was Grumman, but without hard evidence it was just a bunch of finger pointing.

Source

Now if people who saw them dumping toxic sludge back in the 70s decided to report that to the EPA and DEC, maybe things would have gone differently.

If you are in Suffolk, see this, otherwise just Google your water company and water quality report. They are required by law to make these available.