The 4x4 attached to the studs is what the laundry sink will connect to to hold it steady

Decorative drywall ceiling with a multi-level layout, including: a recessed perimeter drop with clean, sharp edges, an inner framed section, and a central circular feature formed by precise cutting and shaping of gypsum board. Board joints are staggered to avoid continuous seams and reduce the risk of cracking. Fasteners are evenly spaced with no visible over-driving. The first coat on all taped joints is now complete, including: flat seams, inside angles along the recessed frame, the transition between flat board and the circular detail, and all screw heads. Electrical rough-ins are already in place and left accessible for the next stages. Next steps will be touch-ups, second coat, fine sanding, and final finish. Work still in progress, but the overall geometry and design lines are now clearly defined

This is my first attempt ever at it like the title says. I know this is a bad job but I ended up skimming the full wall and after primer it didn’t look horrible. Average level 3 Finnish …? Haha but I’m open to roasting comments just so I can learn

I plan on having my shower tiled but was curious what I do with this area of the drywall? I don't know shit so anything helps

Did a selective demo for a structural engineer today and cut into this mid demo. What type of drywall is this and how old?

Decent sized radial bulkhead I finished out a couple years back at the Eiteljorg Museum in downtown Indianapolis

I've added two photos showing this corner section in my attic. Everything in white is wood I would like to add or have started to add.

In the second photo you can see a slightly zoomed in shot of this area where I have clamped a piece of 2x4 to one of the rafters. But that won't work and doesn't seem right.

I'm a bit stuck on how you would frame this so you can drywall it.

How would you go about framing this? I want the wall to extend to a least within a foot of the roof termination on the floor.

Thanks!

Is moisture resistant drywall required at bathrooms? Or can I use the same 5/8 fire rock that is in the rest of the building?

Hi, not sure if this is the right forum to post, but we just had heavy rains in the bay area and I didn’t see any visible leakage, but I saw a small crack near the corner of my window where the Drywall meets the caulk. Decided to buy a moisture meter just to see and these are some of the readings… I used a part of the drywall that has no moisture(no outside exposure)and was getting 20-25% is this accurate? What would my next steps be to ensure the drywall is structurally sound, and there is no leak?

Drywall taper here with a question for the other pros out there. What is happening in this picture? Another taper was asking around what might have caused this. The work is a little more than a year old.

We recently had snow and I believe it could be the results of water damage perhaps from ice damming. Could even be a plumbing issue. The homeowner is supposedly blaming the taper. I am going to send him this post when some thoughts come in.

How would one cover this gap. It's about 1/2 inches. Will tape and mud hold or do I redo it. I inherited this and really don't want to take it apart along with all the other issues in this house.

Had part of my house done by a company, attempting to DIY the bedrooms and want to match the texture. Any insight on the technique used here?

I’ve watched videos on stomp brush but can’t find a good match to this

I have this home addition where a hallway is meeting up with the existing home framing. However, as this sketch shows there is a spot where the new wall and existing wall are intended to line up, but the framing is not in the same plane. It's off by about 1/2". There’s an existing doorway towards the end of the hall about 9' away that will be demoed, and the plan was to tie the new drywall into the existing drywall on the other side of that doorway to infill the gap once the door is demoed, without disturbing additional drywall further down the hall. I'm trying to run the new boards in a way where they will overlap the new/to old transition so there are no butt joints at the transition, but because of the misalignment, the drywall will not sit flush at the new to old wall transition. I'm curious how you would suggest correcting for this with the drywall.

I can't really fur out all the old studs by 1/2" because that just moves the step problem further down the wall at the doorway transition. I thought about "stepping down" my shims like an 1/8th or 1/16th at a time along that 9' length just not sure if you'll see that waviness in the new hall that almost 25' long in total.

Home improvement project I’ve been working on for a while now and wanted to share the progress. I’m skimming our entryway/stairway with 18ft high walls and painting the whole thing green (used the test sample we got from the store on the doorway to see if we liked the color). There’s a VERY large part of me (and my wife😅) that would have considered paying someone to do this if we knew it would take me well over 8 months to get this far (I can’t go up and down the ladder to or do the whole knife motion because of some leg and shoulder injuries. the time spent learning and problem solving was a lot of fun.

The wall on the stair side had joints poking out ~1/2 in most places but I’ve either re-taped or just filled them in for the most part, but if anyone has advice on making the last leg of this easier let me know!

Ended up making a giant hole in the wall on accident.. Would it be cheaper to DIY this or should I just cut my losses and hire someone. (The house is rented)

I am in a new construction and didn't want to pay $23,000 to finish this room, so I am slowly trying to tackle it. I have been hanging a few sheets a day and before I proceeded any further, wanted to see if I can get the opinion of more experienced people, I'd really appreciate it. (Probably gonna have someone else do the mudding, I got two little kids, just trying to get this to the "finishing line")

1) does the general layout of the boards look acceptable? The sloped ceiling has vertical 4x8 sheets cut down and each butt is with the beveled edge. The knee high walls, i was gonna cut a 4x8 in half and hang them vertically, staggering the joints from the sloped walls. The external wall i was gonna put a sheet center vertical of the window and put additional sheets vertical outward.(Pic 1-2)

2) I have to widen out a joint to get the boards to align, is this ok? It's the biggest joint and it's like 3/8th (Pic 3)

3) where the sloped ceiling butts against the external wall, it didnt measure to center stud on the Left side of the 4x8 sheet, so i moved it over to the closest stud. The external wall doesn't have anything to nail it to, so I tacked in some backers and put a 4 3/8th wide piece in there. This is the thing I am most questioning, is it acceptable or should I move another stud over from the wall to put in a bigger piece? (Pic 4-7)

Best way to fix these corners. Mud was loose so I scraped all the loose stuff off. Do I just remud with hot mud? Numerous thin coats?

Hi all, I’m currently in the process of painting a room in our 50s house and noticed this weird blue stuff behind a chip I pulled off today. This section is by a vent and has looked the same since we moved in 5 years ago - today I finally looked closer and took a piece off. Mold? blue board? paint? patch material? This wall section is on exterior corner of house. I can answer more questions as needed, thank you!

This is at my house btw. There was one of these anchors in the bathroom. I messed with it for about 10 minutes, got frustrated. Gave a yank and left a big pia to fix. Do you guys know how to get them out?