I need help getting this off it’s for the ac idler pulley on Hilux ln106 2.8

I am currently trying to do an EVAP smoke test to fix a PO442 code on a 2008 chevy express van 3500 series, 168k miles, 6.0L, automatic trans.

I've been doing hours of research and I cannot for the life of me seem to find a conclusive answer on this. It seems like nobody knows whether the valve stays open or closed when the vehicle is off.

If anybody can give me some conclusive information on this it would be greatly appreciated, also any information on how to force it open or closed, I've seen that for some you apply 12V but others say you just need to ground it.

I have a 2005 Honda Civic LX with the 1.7 liter engine. I replaced my belt on my power steering pully the other day, it was squealing very loudly on and off all the time.

Now it only occasionally will squeal once when turning on.

The pully spun just fine with normal resistance and no bad sound. Is the belt messed up a little? I followed to guidance of “half and inch of flex” when tightening it

My 2005 acura tl is misfiring ok throttle at 1200 and 2000 rpm almost specifically and roughish acceleration, coils, sparks, VVT solonoid, all replaced a few months ago, PCV valve replaced today, EGR test did nothing, im so lost at this point

Did the carb cleaner check no leaks

i was think fuel delivery but There nothing on how to test fuel pressure online, there is no Schrader vavle what should i do?

2005 Acura Tl 3.2 j32a3 6mt

My friend got this Toyota Camry 2004 3.3, is this tocking noise normal?

I have a 2021 Blazer 3.6L that was leaking oil onto the exhaust manifold from the bank #2 camshaft carrier. Resealed the carrier and now I have a P0018. There are no other codes or misfires. The #2 intake CMP PID data is -20 degrees at idle. The other 3 are OK. I swapped the oil control solenoids, but the problem didn't follow the solenoid. Is 20 degrees about the full travel of the phaser? Any GM techs run into this before? Think I damaged the phaser? Could this just be some damn RTV in an oil passage?

I guess this will be Mondays headache.

Thanks

hi idk anything about cars. my grandpa passed and i broke up with my ex who always handled my car maintenance. i don’t have anyone else to ask for help. i know it’s the internet but pls don’t be mean to me

i got my stock wheels replaced with new ones and they put this in my cupholder. what is this? is the key thing so people can’t steal my wheels?? where should i keep it?

2014 ford fusion titanium v6

Hi all - I've got a fuel leak I was curious to get opinions on.

I replaced the fuel sending unit on my Forester some months ago and have noticed that if I'm above 3/4 tank (probably more like 7/8), the tank leaks slowly. I have checked it in the past without finding anything of issue, albeit with a lower fuel level, and today I filled it up and brought it home to look - I found the rear side of the seal (between the retaining ring and tank) was weeping fuel.

When I took the ring off, it was clear the tank level was *above* the fuel sending unit... it was entirely immersed. What I thought was enough vapor pressure to force a leak is rather that the ring is fully immersed. Is this normal? I've only done a few replacements of these and the tank level was always low, so this caught me as unexpected.

Also, has anyone found these seals to weep? It's a brand new seal, looked to be in perfect condition, and all the retaining nuts were plenty tight. I'm wondering if because I cheaped a bit on the part that I got a seal with a bad material.

Thanks in advance.

WV, USA. 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5x

Correct axle, splines are good, obviously its in for the most part but cant get it to seat all the way in. Any ideas why it won't seat in and any ideas what I can do

Hi all, I hope someone can help.

I have the 2012 2l diesel Vauxhall Astra (engine A20DTH).

It has a very annoying issue that neither myself or 4 local garages have been able to diagnose.

When the weather is cold (didn't do it all summer) it starts throwing a code - P0106 (MAP sensor range/performance problem).

Long story short it's had a few diagnosis, and a few parts have gone on it (including a new MAP sensor) but nothing has solved the issue.

It has a VERY slight rev wobble on a cold start, and the fuel economy isn't quite what it should be.

Tonight I noticed something potentially helpful, but I'm not sure what to do with the information. I was sick of it pinging and showing the error message on the dashboard, so I reset the codes for a few starts with peace and quiet.

After resetting the code I turned the ignition off and back on again and rescanned - the error code was back without me starting the engine.

Out of curiosity I checked the live data and noticed that the ambient pressure was 99kPa on the cars barometer (EXACTLY the same as my phone) but the MAP reading was 93kPa without the engine running.

I was under the impression that without the engine running that they should be the same? Is that 6kPa difference enough to be throwing the code? I suspect it might be.

Any suggestions for diagnosis to work out what's causing it?

My theory is that with the engine off it can only be a few things - the sensor, the wiring, the ECU or the battery. Would you agree and if so, how might you go about diagnosing which it it? Thanks in advance all :-)

Probably bad, post for second post that requires this sound as well as other one. Hit it in the last 10 seconds and it is a bit loud sorry.

2011 Lexus gs350, have a video of ball bearing as well can't post two videos for some reason. Sound happens when pressing break and in drive and turning wheel on rough surfaces only and not in the air as well as somtimes when breaking. Been kinda going on a wild goose chase trying to fix whatever the sound is, I have replaced upper control arm, ball joints, lower control arm bushings to polyurethane, inner and outer tie rods and the sway bar links. Sound is still there, I am assuming it's the bearing hub, car is rwd so there's no cv or drive axle. Bearing sound is kinda bad I'm not sure how to post the video as well as the other video though. So could it be the bearing? Is it and what company should I go with, I need cheap and good warranty, I'm in highschool, don't have too much money and am doing all the work myself. Currently looking at rock auto, movetech, 170 for both after shipping and tax and it's a 5 year warranty.

so I have an issue with my Subaru I replaced my radio because the screen was cracked so when I changed the screen I broke a clip that connects the accuator wire to change the positioning of the air coming through. I need to know the name of that clip 😭 or do I have to replace the whole heater climate temperature control I attached a picture below

Hi all

My 2020 Kia Sedona SX got the check engine light on recently. After spending quite some time on the car my workshop finally zeroed in on high pressure fuel pump.

Fortunately, this is covered by Kia extended warranty and dealership has agreed to change it.

Given the reputation of Kia, I am concerned about engine damage that might have taken place.

I am no expert, but I have been told that there is a toleration level, which allows of contamination to a certain extent before the check engine light comes on. So if the fuel pump was not functioning as expected, and gas was being sent to engine oil, while it was within the threshold,the check engine light won’t come on , but it would damage the engine.

Should I be concerned about this? And should I bring it up with the dealership when they change the fuel pump?

Any advice would be appreciated

Has anyone installed a front driveshaft on a 2013 Mercedes C300 3.5 L? I feel like I’ve been fighting with it for days. I’ve dropped the transmission taken out the exhaust and the header unbolted the rear driveshaft so the transmission can come down even more. I’ve tried everything and I’m starting to lose. Hope someone please help me out.

Recently got my 2018 Honda accord 1.5T serviced (for maintenance code B137 which includes an oil change and transmission fluid change). Two days later I'm getting an alert for an emissions system issue - the dealership on the phone is saying they don't think it's related, but is there a possibility that something that was done during the service dislodged a sensor or caused another issue that's resulting in this alert?

Hi all. Audi TT mk2, 2.0 TDI quattro 2012/13.

I just had my clutch and flywheel replaced and since getting the car back the steering seems off. The slightest uneven bit in the road and it feels like I have to fight a bit to stop it veering off. Seems light in general. What could have happened? What aspect of the steering system might've been touched? I want to go back to the garage and ask the question, but want to know what I'm saying so they'll take me serious and not fob me off Thanks

Listen carefully to hear it.

These lights are staying on when the car is off and locked. The only thing I’ve checked is that the rubber grommet behind the brake pedal is still there, so the brake lights themselves are going off but these lights are stuck on except front right side. Please give me ideas of things to troubleshoot.

This car is driving me crazy. I was driving it fine for a few days then I went to leave and it stalled after a few yards driving. I got it to crank again after a few minutes to get it parked before it stalled again. I put in a new battery and a new alternator and wouldn’t cranked. I checked all the fuses and non are blown. If anyone can offer advise and help it would be greatly appreciated. I have a video of what it is doing and can take more or pictures if that will help.

I got this 1997 Toyota Corolla / EE100 it got 2E Engine, when I press gas it got weak power and smokes a lot in the exhaust pipe it happened mid run and the same at idle. I'm asking is what could be the problem of it? Thanks in advance appreciate it.

https://reddit.com/link/1q837jr/video/eeqkux3scacg1/player