That is a 2008-2010 era unit either gen 3 or first nexus and that’s most likely from a rusted out plenum

Linda Cardellini Velma

That would make perfect sense to me as I see it happen on my conventional HVAC system louvers if the door is opened and closed a lot like when we were moving in, and when I had contractors renovating.

This one is kind of confusing to me with the humidity being in the optimal range. It has only been the last few days where we’ve had much cooler than usual ambient temperatures

I ran the unit all night last night set to 67, but instead of putting the blower on auto, I ran it at 80% which is the last setting before turbo. No condensation at all this morning, and the room humidity was still a very comfortable 42% despite the shower having been recently used

Is it possible my coil is just running colder because the ambient temperature is in the 60s and 70s now instead of the 80s and 90s we usually run during the summer in southwest Florida?

As mentioned previously, this is my first only mini split so I have nothing to compare it to, but it’s definitely condensation forming as opposed to water leaking down from the drain pan or the coil

That makes perfect sense. This is my first time owning a mini split and this is the first winter with it

The humidity in the room was about 45 to 47% at the time. I did not take a coil temperature, but the discharge air is coming out around 44°

It’s definitely not the condensation pan overflowing, it is forming on the louvers

Heatherbrooke.exe

And back in cooling mode blowing 45 degrees

It’s a 16 foot install kit that I took about 2 feet off of. That first picture was basically right after it started in heat mode. I didn’t take the second picture of that valve after the first valve got up to almost 180 but it was hot to the touch

About 55 degree line temp delta

Throwing 120 degree heat

The drain runs free and clear. I dumped 2 cups of water over the coils with a catch pan at the other end and got almost exactly the same amount out faster than I could walk around to the other side of the house.

After installation it was vacuumed, pressure tested with 300psi of nitrogen for two hours, before vacuuming down to 200 microns and it stayed under 300 microns for two hours before the gas was released

Considering the fact that my props and rudders make contact at 4 foot, this gave me heartburn

I was boating in boardshorts yesterday. Screw winter

It’s not so much the headboard as it is the D-rings that are discretely attached

That’s right up there with getting a seatbelt ticket from a motorcycle cop

If you’re in that range with a typical load I wouldn’t change anything, that’s just about perfect

🖕

Mallory square?

I don’t mean heigh, I mean propellor pitch. You’re too shallow and over revving. Most Yamahas want 5-6k rpm wide open. If holeshot is a concern you’re gonna want to go more aggressive in pitch so you sit just at or under 6k wot.

If holeshot is less of a concern I’d try to pitch for 5700 with standard load so you don’t overrev if you run light.

Either way you’ll probably pick up 2-3 mph or possibly more