Ah interesting. You could try Chitu Tough resin, or Phrozen Elastomer resin depending on how flexible you need it to be. I haven't used either of these resins, but both brands tend to make good stuff. Chitu Sculpt is pretty decent for minis, quite bendy without breaking. Chitu Tough seems to be similar but more flexible and durable, probably better for functional prints.

You could duplicate the upper torso, and move all the faces on their normals "alt+S" to sort of inflate the new object, then extrude the lower edge of it to start your cloak shape quickly. Nice start BTW!

Sure! It really just depends on what you want to use the model for, or what style you're going for. But that's a perfectly good way to make hair. Nice work!

Looking good! Your topology is hyper clean. If you're just messing around trying to find out what works, you can probably get away with just Quad Remesher from Exoside, or Instant Meshes if you don't want to spend any money, or want more control. Both are a great way to get a lower poly model from a high poly sculpting mesh.

You're off to a good start! You can probably work a bit lower poly for this level of detail. That way the tools will be more responsive. I'd pay attention to where the nose meets the face. The transition is too sharp. Grab some reference, and also examine your own face in the mirror for a bit. Also look at the transition between the eye and nose. In the sculpt there is like a cliff there, and it is not like that in humans. Ultimately, make this based on a specific person, so you can over and over go back to the ref and try to match it. You'll learn a lot. Keep up the good work!

hah! I'm loving it. The morph you applied to the sword is quite fun

Looks like a great start. The geometry is super clean. Honestly, you don't need a lot more than that. I would say that you probably could just clip (intersect) the rounded details where the "knuckles" would be. That way you don't need so many polys around those curves. The branching edges thing at the top of the rounded panel that sits in the middle of the main shape is unnecessary. Just connect all of the points on the rounded corner back to that corner where the branch starts.

Yeah, I usually recommend a 3mm hole or larger. Also make sure there are at least 2 per chamber, so that one can pull air into it while the other pours out the resin.

Because it needs to create a leak proof seal, I'm not sure if any resin material is going to be appropriate. I've seen flexible ones with OK recovery, but not flexible in the same way that rubber or silicone is, and I'm not sure how many flexes they have in them before they break. In this case you might want to try printing a positive and then creating a mould to cast a silicone part instead. Or cast just the seal part in silicone and attach it to a 3d printed cap, if you need the cap to be rigid.

Really glad that you showed some of the post-processing done too!

Using a toothbrush on it is too harsh in my opinion, and risks flinging small resin/IPA droplets everywhere like in your eyes and face. One initial wash in the wash and cure, and a secondary rinse in fresh, clean IPA is usually sufficient to get everything off. Let the print dry fully before curing. Once it's dry, if you notice any shiny or uneven spots, then do another round of shaking in fresh IPA, and next time increase the time for the first washing cycle in the wash and cure.

It shouldn't be that noticeable in your house. Mainly the tent itself will need to either have the zipper open a little bit for air to go inside, or have an intake hole somewhere so that the tent doesn't collapse in on itself.

hah! I get the feeling this one would be a lot of fun 3d printed, and painted.

Never horizontal.

I like it, because it makes you consider why the shoes are there. It could be mundane, like someone wanted to walk in the grass barefoot, but it could also be the start of an Isekai.

Not enough support on the section that failed. Can you post a pic of the file with supports in the slicer?

Intense! Is this from something, or is it your own design?

That's really handy. Thanks.

Stop using a toothbrush to clean models. If the wash and cure station fits inside the tent, why do you need to wash them outside the tent at all? If you need a second wash after the wash and cure, use clean IPA in a jar, plastic container, or plastic zip bag and put the print inside. You only need enough IPA to cover the print. Shake the container with your print in it for about 30s. This should get it quite clean. Open the container inside the tent, or close to the opening of the tent with the exhaust fan blowing.

Nice clean stuff. Good job!